China Beach Campground

So, there is the ferry… oh, the ferry! Unless you live on Vancouver Island, the ferry is always an obstacle. It’s a bit expensive for a short trip, and I’m always stressed about whether we’ll make the sailing on time. Once you’re on the boat, though, it feels like you’re on holidays.

The drive from the ferry terminal at Swartz Bay to the park is about two hours in length. There are plenty of places along the way to pick up groceries, beer, and other last-minute items. The last few miles before the park are totally epic, with stunning views of the ocean.

The campground at Juan de Fuca is pretty standard for one in BC’s coastal region. The sites are clean, well maintained, and reasonably well spaced from one another. You’re situated in forested space with massive trees (the type us west-coasters almost start to consider normal). Undergrowth is limited as is common in such forests.

You can access the beach from the campground by foot. It’s a bit of a walk down the hill. This isn’t a hard walk but if you have health issues, it might be a bit of a slog on the return walk. Upon reaching the beach, you get the most gorgeous view. It’s truly spectacular.

Those inclined can also take in all or part of the Juan de Fuca trail. We did part of it (20 km or so) and loved the walk. A good amount of this is in the forest and through thicketed areas. Some areas are a bit challenging to pass. Beach access at one point was tough due to the trail having washed out quite heavily. Some of these beach areas were other-worldly, though, with tall cliffs, seaside caves, and trees gnarled by the coastal winds.

One caution about this park relates to the weather. Being on the west coast of Vancouver Island, Juan de Fuca isn’t sheltered from the coastal winds. As a result, a bright morning often gives way to a foggy afternoon. This can lead to cold conditions. When we visited, the rest of the island was around 30° C (86° F). Due to the wind and fog, it was only 7° C at our campsite (44° F). This was during the middle of summer, and during a fire ban—so, no campfire for us. It got a bit chilly.

Since this trip, I’ve learned my lesson. We bought a propane-burning fire pit (OKed for use during fire bans) and quilts rated for temperatures down to -7°. We also pack our merino wool base layers, and puffer jackets, regardless of the season.

We visited Juan de Fuca Provincial Park in July of 2021, with some good friends. They’re avid adventurers and have camped all over North and South America. They were pretty wowed by the experience as well. They returned the next year to hike the entire Juan de Fuca trail.

I plan to go back again—but for longer next time!